Port McNeill

In the morning I did laundry while Fred did his ongoing maintenance and repair aboard. In the afternoon we had a treat. We each went to Hair Teezers for a pedicure. Tamra remembered me from last year. She is very good and very interesting to talk to. There are very few places to get one up here. Fred decided against the red polish…

Port Neville to Port McNeill - 5¼ hours, 45 miles

No journal.

Beaver Inlet to Port Neville - 4 hours, 26.5 miles

No journal.

Bickley Cove to Beaver Inlet, Loughborough Inlet - 2½ hours, 16 miles

No journal.

Squirrel Cove to Bickley Cove - 5½ hours, 34.5 miles

Fred ran over and picked up our bakery order before we left Squirrel Cove. We have always used the same channels from up into the Broughton Islands. We decided, since we have time, to try something different. Instead of taking Hole in the Wall rapids we are heading up Calm Channel to Cordero Channel. In order to do this we need to pass through two areas of rapids. The first is Yuculta (Gillard Passage) and the second is Dent Rapids. They are only about 3 miles apart. They are known to be vicious unless taken at the proper time of slack water. The calculations for slack water at any of the rapids are a bit confusing. We have two electronic assists with this. The first is a program called “Tide Tool” which is on our Palm Pilot. The second is a program called “Aye Tides” on my iphone. We were further encouraged that our calculation was correct because we were in a group of ten boats waiting to make the passage. We encountered 3 knot current against us and many whirlpools and eddies at Yuculta Rapids. Fred did a fine job of piloting us through them. After Yuculta, Dent Rapids was a piece of cake. We had a very windy trip as well. The highest gust we had was 39 mph, which places it at Gale Force. We were hoping to stop at Shoal Bay Lodge, but it is a small marina and there was no room on the dock. The anchorage is quite small so we continued on to Bickley Bay. There is a fish farm at the mouth and numerous crab pots in the way. We managed to find a good spot up at the head of the bay. The wind continued to roar all night. However, we had warm pie and homemade ice cream for dessert!

Squirrel Cove

As we took the dinghy back over to town to use the internet, we saw a sign that one of the little float houses in the anchorage was actually a bakery and open for business. We stopped on our way back to the boat and the bakery was closed. It is open from 8-noon and 4-8PM. We went back at 4 PM and found out that they take orders for am pick up. We picked up a couple cinnamon rolls for morning and ordered cinnamon rolls, an apple/blackberry pie and some homemade vanilla ice cream.

Sunset


Rainbow at Squirrel Cove


Queens Reach


Princess Louisa Inlet


Princess Louisa Inlet


Fred at John's 90th Birthday


Merlin sleeping on his potty

Squirrel Cove

The wind continued to gust all night and shows no sign of calming down. We were getting ready to take the dinghy back to “town” when we saw our friends Hans & Ingrid on “See Yarn Too” cruise by. They normally stay on docks but since there is no room out there they are going to give anchoring a try. We saw that that put the anchor down twice and asked if they wanted to raft to us. Hans said no but looked worried about the whole process. We stopped by on the dinghy and asked if Hans would like Fred to help. Hans gladly accepted. The men got the anchor down together. We continued on our way to the government dock. We brought the computer with us today and Fred checked some accounts and we sent a message to our family that we are alive and well. We got soaked by the wind waves going back to Aquila. Merlin was fine, he stayed under the ole beach blanket. We went over to See Yarn Too after dinner for a visit. Hans & Ingrid are such nice and interesting people. We have promised to call them when we come to the Seattle boat show next year and go out to dinner together.

Refuge Cove to Squirrel Cove - 45 minutes, 3 miles

We took a very short trip across Lewis Channel to Squirrel Cove on cortes Island. There is a government dock as you enter the bay with a grocery store, crafts store and restaurant. The dock is full of small boats (less than 20 feet). We weren’t going on the dock anyway. We headed on past Protection Island to the anchorage further in the bay. It is a very large area but we were still surprised by the amount of boats anchored here. We are anxious to get further north. Too much humanity here. The good news is that there is no loud music. The wind picked up this afternoon and there are gusts up to about 25 mph. We took the dinghy over to the government dock to pick up a few things at the store. The wind caused quite a bit of salt spray. Merlin stayed buried under a beach towel. We found out that there is unsecured internet over here so we will come back with the computer tomorrow.

Grace Harbour to Refuge Cove - 1¼ hours, 6 miles

There are not many places that have phone and internet service in Desolation Sound. We came to Refuge Cove specifically to have both. We left Grace Harbour early so we could get a place on the dock at Refuge Cove (West Redonda Island). We found a good dock location but the phone wouldn’t work from the boat. Internet service was $10 / 24 hours. This is quite a little “town”. The marina area is run as a co-op. The store is very well supplied and they sell liquor too. The laundry is clean, has two showers and two toilets. The best part is the little restaurant. It is open for breakfast and lunch. We went over and had a breakfast sandwich (hamburger bun, cheese, ham & fried egg) which was delicious. Of course we each had a latte and they were delicious. There are boardwalks over the rocky shore that also let to a little gift shop. Big surprise, I didn’t buy anything.

Thunder Bay to Grace Harbour, Desolation Sound - 5½ hours, 41 miles

Another sunny, warm & beautiful day for the trip to Desolation Sound. This wind and waves kicked up pretty good in Malaspina Straight. There were about 4-5’ waves. When we passed Grief Point (Powell River) the water flattened out nicely. There was a bit too much wind for us to consider anchoring in the Copeland Islands. Also, there were already quite a few there. This gave an inkling of the amount of boat traffic there is here in mid-summer. We usually come through at least a month earlier and have much more breathing room. As we entered Desolation Sound we couldn’t help but have the snow-capped mountains take our breath away. Grace Harbour (Gifford Peninsula) was crowded when we anchored, and the boats kept on coming until after dark. This is a very popular place. The harbour is very well protected and has a good hiking trail as well. We put the dinghy in the water and went for a nice tour, but didn’t get out until we returned to Aquila.

Princess Louisa Inlet to Thunder Bay - 6 ½ hours, 46 miles

Another clear, sunny & beautiful day. It is almost a shame to be leaving here today. As I walked Merlin before we left it sounds like half of the folks on the dock are leaving this morning. The mountains and waterfalls humble us. It is such a privilege to be here where the only access is by small boat or float plane. It certainly limits the number of visitors. However, as we are passing through Malibu Rapids to get back out into Queens Reach, we see about six vessels waiting to enter the inlet. The current is with us but we have 20-34 mph headwinds. The seas got about 1-2 foot chop. Fred found me a black bear on the beach in Jervis Inlet. That’s #1 for the season… Thunder Bay is an enormous half-circle shaped bay. There is beach along the shore and just above the beach are clipped lawns and big houses. We didn’t get off of the boat here. We are in very nice weather, otherwise this bay would provide very little protection. We chose this anchorage for it’s location. It will be another big jump tomorrow to Desolation Sound.

Princess Louisa Inlet

There are folks in three sailboats that are traveling together. They all have 4-7 year olds (I think 5 of them). As the sun started warming up the bay, the parents put life jackets on the kids, let them row the dinghy’s (2 of them) while tethered to the mother ship. Oh yes, they also had water guns. Too funny, until one starts crying that big brother won’t let him have a turn. Now it’s annoying. We took the dinghy out to middle of the inlet to appreciate the vast scale of what we are in the middle of. The cliff walls are of varied color granite covered with moss and trees growing out of unlikely crevices. There must be 50 + waterfalls. The crown jewel is Chatterbox Falls at the head of the inlet. It is immense. Maybe 50 feet wide and 200 feet high?

Pender Harbour to Princess Louisa Inlet - 7 ¾ hours, 50 miles

We left at 8:20 AM for our long journey today. The departure time is based upon slack water at Malibu Rapids, the entrance to Princess Louisa Inlet. There was hardly a cloud in the sky for our cruise. We had about a 20 mph tailwind and a one foot following sea. Very comfortable fort us. As we entered Agamemnon Channel the snow capped peaks were starting to become visible. Once we entered Prince of Wales Reach the rest of the journey was in a fjord. One breathtaking mountain top after another. The peaks went almost straight up from the water to 2500 to 3500 meters (1 meter = 3.3 feet). We were essentially in one long winding passage which ends just beyond Malibu Rapids. We traveled in Princess Royal Reach after Prince of Wales Reach. Our destination is off of Queens Reach. We were one of nine boats to enter the inlet through rapids (well, calm since we waited for slack tide). We all motored about until the current was less than two knots. The tide is with us, which helps. We entered about 30 minutes early following a fast trawler. The Rapids have a reverse S curve. The slowest boats, the sailboats, entered last. We were not prepared for the number of boats we saw. The dock is quite small. As we passed Malcolm Island we saw that all of the mooring buoys were taken. We pretty much assumed we would have to anchor. Anchoring in the head of the inlet usually requires stern-tying because the water is so deep. Luck was with us. There were several spots on the inside of the dock. We backed into the next to the last spot on the end. This way we looked out at mountains, not a lot of boats. The author Earle Stanley Gardiner wrote in his Log of a Landlubber: “There is a calm tranquility which stretches from the smooth surface of the reflecting waters straight up to infinity. The deep calm of eternal silence is only disturbed by the muffled roar of throbbing waterfalls as they plunge from sheer cliffs. There is no scenery in the world that can beat it. Not that I have seen the rest of the world. I don’t need to. I’ve seen Princess Louisa Inlet.” This says what we think much more eloquently than I can. Merlin & I went for a walk as soon as we were tied up. There is a short walk, on a boardwalk, through a magnificent rainforest. There are two bridges over rapids which are the end result of some waterfalls on the mountain. The tide is out so I let Merlin off the leash. He loves the beach. Of course, there is no driftwood here. That’s OK, Merlin like to pull small rocks out of the water. Go figure… There is a woman swimming with her Golden Retriever in the chilly water. It is about 60 degrees. They are having so much fun.

Pender Harbour

We took the dinghy into Madeira Park today. Of course we know our favorite spot for a latte. We sat in the sun and watched people for awhile. We then walked up to the Painted Boat Resort. It is probably less than a mile from the marina. The last time we were here the place only had a couple model units open and the grounds were still in the plan. The resort is based upon ¼ ownership of each unit. There is a cutesy restaurant now, and a lovely spa. We walked through and we loved it. Lots of use of big stones, fountains and lounge areas by a hot tub with the saunas nearby. They were all booked upped for today or we might have stayed for a treatment and to lay in the sun in plush deck chairs.

Nanaimo to Pender Harbour - 5 hours, 32 miles

We got up at 7 AM to do a garbage run and get our latte before leaving dock. We checked the weather and even though it is sunny and beautiful, we were prepared for winds up to 25 mph. we decided that we would venture out into the Straight of Georgia a bit and see if we wanted to make the crossing today. As we emerged from Newcastle Island Passage we encountered winds around 25 mph and gusting to 35 mph. Whiskey Gulf (WG) was not active. It is a deepwater range operated by the Canadian & US navies to test torpedoes (unarmed) and various ships’ systems. When it is active the direct route across the Straight is unavailable and it adds another hour to the trip to avoid the area. The wind was coming from the NW (directly at us) and the seas were 4-5 feet. Pretty uncomfortable but manageable. Fred & I made sure that everything of importance was secured. The box holding Merlin’s stuff (shampoo, leashes, toys, treats, etc.) was the only thing to fall over. I’d say lucky but it was good preparation on our part. Fred had the helm (his preference) so Merlin & I went down to our stateroom and took a nap. Merlin dived under the covers and did not emerge again until we were in calm water across the Straight inside of Texada Island. We entered Pender Harbour and went back into Gerran’s Bay to anchor. There is one sailboat and the two, old, derelict looking boats at anchor here. The old boats are rafted together and have been here for at least the last six years. It is time for Fred’s nap and then we had barbecued steak for dinner.

Nanaimo

Fred is due home today so I cleaned the boat, did the laundry and some grocery shopping. Fred called at each stage of his travel to check in. It will be so nice to have him back. It is way too quiet here when he is gone. Fred got back around 3:30 PM. He is exhausted by this quick 48 hour trip to California. We have been so comfortable on our own dock. About 6:30 Pm while the wind was blowing about 20 mph and pushing us off the dock I saw another boat trying to get on the dock near us. They were being blown all over the place. Via charades I understood them to ask us to move forward a bit on the dock so they could pull in behind us. It took three of us to grab lines and pull them onto the dock. The winds were making it very tough. Apparently two couples are chartering this Tolleycraft for three weeks. Nice folks. Boat Name is Eagle’s Nest.

Nanaimo

The temperature has finally dropped to the low 70’s. It is hazy and still muggy. After I went up the dock to get my latte, Merlin & I walked over to the Dragon Races site in the harbor. I was in time for the Carnation Ceremony. There were 10 dragon boats rafted together in the water. Everyone was handed a pink carnation. A beautiful song about strong women was sung as everyone (hundreds of people) threw their carnations into the water. Of course I was thinking about Aunt Pat and my friend Joyce. The Dragon boats then came back to the dock which was lined with hundreds of participants with their paddles pointed up to create an arch as all of the women in the boats filed out. Every one of them is a breast cancer survivor. Not a dry eye anywhere. Even Merlin sat quietly as if he knew it was a reverent moment. Of course then he went as he found pieces of carnations and stems and tried to eat them. I stopped him because I have no idea if they would hurt him.

Nanaimo

After breakfast we went to go get a latte and walk over and watch the dragon races. This area is about 100 yards north of where the boat is moored. By mid-morning the temperature was already in the 80’s so I changed my order to an iced latte (very refreshing). There were a few venders selling t-shirts and paddle oriented jewelry. I was able to resist temptation. There were quite a few food and drink venders. There was a vender offering free samples of O’Douls beer and some alcohol free hard ciders. We each asked for a taste of the peach one and she handed us each our own bottle. I guess they are pushing this stuff because it was free. They even had a beer garden (we passed on that). There was live entertainment and a very festive mood. We watched a few races and then went back to the boat. First of all we are dying in the heat which has reached 100 degrees. This is unusual weather for this area. Kind of like San Francisco which has a more temperate climate most of the year. Secondly, Fred has decided (at the last moment) to try and get back to San Francisco and drive him up on Sunday to John Sheridan’s 90th birthday party. We love John like a father and we knew this was important. Fred was able to schedule a float plane out of here to Seattle, a regular flight into San Francisco, a rental car and hotel for two nights. He has never taken a float plane ride. That should be exciting. This is going to be a total surprise for John and his family. At 9 PM we went back to Swy a Lana Lagoon for the Candles of Courage Ceremony. We stood with many others at the side of the lagoon. A piper (bag-pipes) preceded a long line of women carrying a pink candle and a pink rose. When the participants were assembled by the water a lovely song was sung about women and courage. While the young lady was singing, all of the candles and roses were set adrift. It was cloudy this afternoon and as the sun set there was a beautiful pink sky behind the women. It was very moving. Most of the proceeds for this event are going to breast cancer and the local Nanaimo hospital. At low tide the water from this lagoon drains from the lagoon into the harbour and at high tide the water in the lagoon is restored.

Nanaimo

The temperature only reached the 80’s today. Thank God. Fred & I went over to the races this morning. Then he packed for his California trip. How do men do that? I would have started yesterday and worries and fussed over it. He was able to pack in a small backpack. Fred was ready to go and we were on the boat having a coffee about 12:30 when he received a call from Kenmore Airlines. He was supposed to leave at 2:15 and would it be possible for him to be ready an hour early? He said sure, so we walked up the dock and found a taxi. He is on his way with a promise to check in at each step. Really a bit strange to be on the boat alone with Merlin. Fred called from Seattle and said that Customs was a piece of cake. He was able to sit in the right seat on the plane (next to the pilot). He loved it except the noise. They gave out free ear plugs thankfully.

Nanaimo

After breakfast we went to go get a latte and walk over and watch the dragon races. This area is about 100 yards north of where the boat is moored. By mid-morning the temperature was already in the 80’s so I changed my order to an iced latte (very refreshing). There were a few venders selling t-shirts and paddle oriented jewelry. I was able to resist temptation. There were quite a few food and drink venders. There was a vender offering free samples of O’Douls beer and some alcohol free hard ciders. We each asked for a taste of the peach one and she handed us each our own bottle. I guess they are pushing this stuff because it was free. They even had a beer garden (we passed on that). There was live entertainment and a very festive mood. We watched a few races and then went back to the boat. First of all we are dying in the heat which has reached 100 degrees. This is unusual weather for this area. Kind of like San Francisco which has a more temperate climate most of the year. Secondly, Fred has decided (at the last moment) to try and get back to San Francisco and drive him up on Sunday to John Sheridan’s 90th birthday party. We love John like a father and we knew this was important. Fred was able to schedule a float plane out of here to Seattle, a regular flight into San Francisco, a rental car and hotel for two nights. He has never taken a float plane ride. That should be exciting. This is going to be a total surprise for John and his family. At 9 PM we went back to Swy a Lana Lagoon for the Candles of Courage Ceremony. We stood with many others at the side of the lagoon. A piper (bag-pipes) preceded a long line of women carrying a pink candle and a pink rose. When the participants were assembled by the water a lovely song was sung about women and courage. While the young lady was singing, all of the candles and roses were set adrift. It was cloudy this afternoon and as the sun set there was a beautiful pink sky behind the women. It was very moving. Most of the proceeds for this event are going to breast cancer and the local Nanaimo hospital. At low tide the water from this lagoon drains from the lagoon into the harbour and at high tide the water in the lagoon is restored.

Montague Harbour to Nanaimo - 4 ¾ hours 32 miles

It’s going to be another scorcher today. We didn’t leave Montague until 11 AM today because we have to time our travel to go through Dodd Narrows (http://www.dairiki.org/tides/daily.php/dod)at slack water. The narrows are going to be at slack water, heading to flood at 3 PM. We had the current with us so that we had to pull power to slow us down. We went through the Narrows at 2:45 PM with 1 ½ knots pushing. No problems. We decided to stay on the dock in Nanaimo because Fred is going to look into going to California on Saturday to see our friend John, who turns 90 today. We were surprised that there were several boats at the breakwater waiting for a slip assignment. I asked if there was a reason for the crowd and was told that the Nanaimo Dragon Boat Races start tomorrow. We told them that power was optional and would take a less desirable slip. We were assigned to B dock. That is the dock that float planes land on. We will be on the south side of it (planes on the north side). We are all alone over here and Fred found some power for us. It is a little odd being off to the north side of the fuel dock and the fishing vessel docks. However, we have a security gate and we look out the stern at the harbour and over to the anchorage. We can see the mainland across the Straight of Georgia and some snow-capped mountains. Just beautiful.

Montague Harbour

We have been looking forward to beautiful sunny weather, but we don’t like this. It made it up to 96 degrees today, and no wind! We took the dinghy over to the campground area. Merlin got to run on the beach and we had a nice hike around Grey Peninsula. Fortunately there was some shade there. At the far end of the peninsula there used to be a staircase up to the campground area. Well those have fallen apart, so the only ways back to the dinghy are; walk all the way back around the peninsula, swim or climb up the dry, dirt hill. Fred went before me and then reached the backpack down to me so I would have some kind of safety line. While we were climbing up on all fours, Merlin is running up & down as if to say, what is taking you so long? The coolest we’ve been today was running the dinghy fast across the water. When we returned to Aquila we were all filthy. Fred figured the best way to clean his feet was to splash them in the water. I did that too and it felt wonderful. We then looked at Merlin. He had every kind of burr and twig in his fur possible. We considered putting him in the water to splash around but we thought the best solution was 50/50. I got down on the swim platform and Fred held Merlin and let the lower half of him splash in the water. I’m telling you he did a mean dog-paddle. I then took him down to the tub to wash the lower half of his body and brush out all the stickers, etc. Then we both went topside to dry off. Fred & I had a late lunch out in the cockpit. Out there is a “Pet-Potty” which is a box with special Astro-turf on top. This is so when we are truly unable to get Merlin to shore for his walks, this is his spot. We wondered where Merlin had decided to nap. I looked behind me and say him curled up in the box in the sun… We laughed so hard, until I thought he would need to be bathed again. Fortunately the asto-turf was dry.

Bedwell Harbour to Montague Harbour 2 ¾ hours 13 miles

We took the dinghy over to Poet’s Cove this morning. We each got a latte and then I took Merlin down to the beach to run around while Fred went into the hotel to check his email on their computer. He would have stayed and read the newspaper too but we are heading to Montague Harbour today. It is so nice that everywhere we have been so far has allowed dogs on the beach. Merlin loves to dig holes (yea, like kids don’t do that…) and venture into the shallows looking for the perfect rock or shell. He hasn’t been swimming yet this year. We are kind of curious to see how he’ll do. At least he isn’t afraid of the water. The ride from Bedwell to Montague was very rocky-rolly. Part of it was the wind making 1-2 foot chop and the other was the rather large amount of boats out here leaving their rough wake. We got a nice spot to anchor at Montague and then went out to read and sun bathe. The sky is clear and it made it up to 78 degrees today. I was busy baking blueberry scones and chocolate chip cookies. After dinner I took Merlin & Fred for a sunset cruise in the dinghy. Both my skill and my confidence are improving. Fred still gets a little nervous though.

Bedwell Harbour (Poet’s Cove)

Today the skies started out a beautiful blue and they stayed that way all day. It was in the low 70’s and glorious. Fred was up early and went to the hotel to check email and to get a latte. Fred and I each scheduled a massage at the spa at Poet’s Cove. We took the dinghy over there about 12 noon. We went into the steam cave and then a shower before our massages. I had a nice relaxing Swedish massage, but Fred opted for the deep tissue massage. When we met after our massages I felt great but Fred could hardly move. We had a great lunch at the resort before heading back to the boat at 4 PM. Fred didn’t argue about taking Advil. After dinner Fred decided I need to learn how to operate and drive the dinghy. We are both agreed it would give me a bit more freedom. Fortunately Bedwell Harbour is quite large. I was able to lower the 15 HP Honda engine into the water but I cannot raise it up. Oh well. Need Fred there. I also had a bit of trouble with the throttle and pointing the craft in the right direction. We are sure I was the comedy relief in the bay. Fred was great; he only raised his voice when I was heading for the rocks.

Sidney to Bedwell Harbour 1 ½ hours 10 miles

We weren’t in the mood for big fireworks, etc for the holiday. Of course, Canada just had their big national holiday on the 1st.

Sidney

Fred got up early and walked into town before I got up. I did the laundry and then we walked back into town (about a mile). This town is lovely to walk the one downtown street. Lots of bookstores and cute restaurants.

Friday Harbor to Van Isle Marina, Sidney, BC - 3 hours 18 miles

CANADA
Lots of boat traffic as we head up to British Columbia. We are traveling on a lovely clear day. We are hoping that by entering Canada after Canada Day that we won’t have much traffic at Customs. Fred pulled out our folder of “Official Stuff” that has our passports and Nexus cards thanks to Jason, Heather and Ann (remember, they got to go through all kinds of our boxes in storage back in alameda because we left these documents at home when we came north?). Fred called Canadian Customs just as we crossed over the invisible dotted line that separates our two countries. They gave us our Customs # 20101830375 and said if there is no one on the Customs Dock in Sidney that we can go right to our slip. As luck would have there was no one at Customs Dock. We are assigned D-706. The Irzyk’s boat, Golden Dawn, is not in her slip. These are old friends from Alameda who moved back to Boston 2-3 years ago. When they started cruising the Inside Passage 10-15 years ago we were invited to come up for 2-3 weeks a year to cruise with them. We have many fond memories of week-ends and vacations on Golden Dawn. Cathy & Bob were gracious hosts and allowed us to spend time with them from the San Juan Islands, WA to Ketchikan, Alaska. Cathy called back in April and said that this year they were coming up only to remove there personal belongings and that Golden Dawn was heading to Seattle to be sold. We took a walk up to our favorite fish n’ chips place on the West Coast, Hyland’s, for dinner.

Friday Harbor (Canada Day)

Canada's national day, a federal statutory holiday celebrating the anniversary of the July 1, 1867, enactment of the British North America Act (today called the Constitution Act, 1867), which united two British colonies and a province of the British Empire into a single country called Canada. Canada Day observances take place throughout Canada as well as internationally. We didn’t want to enter Canada on a national holiday, so we are still at Friday Harbor.

Popeye the one eyed harbor seal

He comes around the marina every day to check everyone out. There is even a sculpture of him above the docks.